Training for bikepacking: how we prepared for a long trip
Before setting off on our long-distance trip across the American continent, we had to do some semblance of physical training. Not that we really felt the need, but apparently it reassures our loved ones to know we’re “ready”… or almost!
So we mostly bet on taking part in races, challenges and group rides, as a duo or solo.
Montventous.tes, an ode to women’s cycling
The adventure before the adventure
The event closest to our hearts is the one created by our friends Yann and Tobert from the Les Rookies collective: an adventure designed to showcase women’s cycling, which is still far too underrated. The idea? Ride as a group from Bédoin to the summit of Mont Ventoux.
It was the first ride Julien and I signed up for, even though we didn’t have our bikes yet. But why wait until you’re ready to get started? In the end, we only received our bikes a few months before the event. Phew, we’d be able to make the start!
The big day arrives. We catch an early-morning train. It’s the first time we have to pack our bikes into their bags. Despite arriving an hour and a half early, we barely make our train. The scene is magical:
In hall 1 of Paris Gare de Lyon, we try to take our wheels off. Front wheel? Check, nothing easier! Rear wheel? Ouch… Neither of us had really practiced this painful operation. Julien, with his Rohloff, can’t figure out which screw to undo (red wire or blue…?). As for me, on the verge of exploding under the pressure of prying eyes, I give up and wait for Julien’s help.
In the end, we finish with both my wheels off (thanks, J!), and Julien’s rear wheel… hidden inside the bag. The conductors, as kind as they are embarrassed by the situation, let us in through the side door and put our bikes somewhere safe. (Thank you, Trenitalia!)
First stop in Orange, where we spend the night before joining our friends in Bédoin, the starting point of the festivities. We make the most of a hostel to get a good night’s sleep before three nights in the tent in our 6 m² eco-lodge.
Too excited at the thought of climbing the “Bald Mountain”, I can’t sleep a wink. I keep thinking about this endless climb. I want to take on this challenge to prove to my body that it’s capable of great things, but also to make Julien proud, who has believed in me from the start.
Women on bikes
The next morning, we head for Bédoin. Little by little, we catch sight of the summit of Mont Ventoux. The idea of being up there in a few days is exhilarating.
Before that, the Rookies have prepared a fantastic weekend for us. We meet at Pista Café, where we attend inspiring, 100% female talks. Women share their stories, tell how they discovered cycling, and talk about their doubts and their motivation to set off on long-distance adventures, alone or as a pair. We’re fascinated.
They all seem so strong and inspiring. Intimidated and dreamy, we hope to have even an ounce of their boldness when we set off on our long-distance trip from Canada to Patagonia.
Mont Ventoux, here we come
The next morning, we meet early for a group briefing. Full of doubts about my ability to take on such a challenge, I let a discreet tear slip. I send one last message to my family (a melodramatic farewell of the kind only I can write). And off we go! Airplane mode on to be more aero, music blasting in our ears, we tear off with the group.
We quickly let the group go and find ourselves at the back. Our 3-inch tires don’t make things easy on the asphalt, but the kilometers tick by. Julien rides ahead of me, not too close (at my request), but always within sight to motivate me from afar.
I’m in my bubble, focused on my pace and my breathing. No point trying to be first, I just need to get to the top in one piece. Julien drops back to chat for a moment. Out of breath, I ask him to tell me when there are only 10 km of climbing left (half of the effort). I’ve barely finished my sentence when I spot a sign: Summit in 9 km. WHAT? Already?
We stop to celebrate this sweet news with a Clif Bar each. We’re making good progress, I’m happy and proud of my body. During this break, the weather starts to turn. Far from dampening our spirits, the few drops of rain falling on us cool us down.
And then, finally, we see the top of the climb. A little more effort, and we’re there. At the top, all our friends are waiting for us. We, the tractors, get a finish in very good company. Team Charbon, the Rayonnantes, Reliefs, and everyone else is there.
I burst into tears. I’m proud, as I’ve rarely been. Julien is in tears too. We hug each other tight.
What a (first) victory!
GravelMan Jura: our first challenge before the long-distance trip
A challenge for two?
And so, what was bound to happen… happened. Julien finally convinced me to sign up for a long-distance event: the GravelMan Jura. I hesitated for a long time before committing.
The first reason was simply my impostor syndrome catching up with me. Can I ride such a distance on these routes known to be tough, with many sections where you have to push your bike? Won’t I slow Julien down too much? Will we make it in time? So many limiting thoughts that, deep down, aren’t grounded in reality.
The second reason was more down to earth. Julien, who had already done many GravelMan adventures, shared his war stories with a little too much detail and an enthusiasm I didn’t share… I’ll always remember the time he called me after 24 hours on the GravelMan Morocco, almost in tears. He told me: “I nearly died, never again.” When he hung up, he assured me he was going back to the riad to rest and wouldn’t touch his bike again. The next day, imagine my surprise when I read his message: “All good, we’re heading out again with two other friends.” … Great.
In short, none of these experiences made me want to go. But as always with Julien, he ended up convincing me it was a good idea. So we signed up for the GravelMan Jura: 120 km and 2,000 m of climbing.
First sensations
At the start of the event, I was frustrated to see the other riders passing us. On our bikes with 3-inch tires, the paved sections slowed us down quite a bit. But once we reached a ski slope (closed, since it was summer), I understood the point of our bikes (about time!). I got my first shot of adrenaline on that slope. A feeling I didn’t know, that sport had never given me until then. The pine forest flies by, my vision blurs, it’s intoxicating. Right, left, we dodge tree trunks and the stones kicked up by our wheels. Ahead of me, Julien sets the pace… and what a pace! We hurtle down in five minutes what took us an hour to climb. Fascinating.
That’s when I understood why Julien had headed back out in Morocco… and why so many people are passionate about this sport.
Win or nothing
With the mindset of conquerors, we kept going along Steven’s route. A well-deserved lunch break makes us realize I’m the first woman in our category. I switch into a new mode: win or nothing.
Little by little, we catch up with the riders ahead. The more we pass them, the more we start chatting and even bonding. In the end, we form a small group of about ten cyclists. There are two women in this makeshift team, and that’s when I realize it’s not just a race against the clock, but an adventure to be lived to the full.
The last kilometers are ridden in the dark, in the cool of the Jura night. We’ve put our sweaters back on and switched on our lights. Calm gradually settles over our group. The cicadas sing the end of the day, while late-summer gnats flutter around our salty legs. We amuse ourselves imagining wolves lurking in the shadows, ready to pounce. Knowing our passion for nocturnal animals, Julien and I laugh through gritted teeth.
A few meters from the finish, the guys offer Stephy and me the chance to lead the group across the line. A small privilege we accept without hesitation, very proud to have finished the route in time and in such good company.
“Solo” on the Poco Loco Aix-Milan
Leg-shaking stats and eye-popping landscapes
To break in his Tumbleweed Prospector and start getting used to the camping gear, Julien decided to sign up for the Poco-Loco adventure: a stunning 800 km gravel route with 13,000 m of climbing through the most beautiful villages, passes and nature parks of southern France and northern Italy. A pitch like that is hard to turn down. Especially since the route was scouted by Caroline Prigent (now the founder of Bivouak), who has a habit of offering us incredible maps! I did say “incredible”, not “easy”.
A rough start
Between a boulder field with dizzying slopes, where you have to carry your bike, and a section full of thorns that shows no mercy to tires, his mental strength is put to the test. On the very first day of the adventure, the challenges pile up: 5 flats and 3 hours battling with his inner tubes… This day is shaping up to be memorable. Luckily, he can count on the kindness and mutual help of other riders, the real pillars of this kind of adventure.
These setbacks lead to a great encounter: Gilles, with whom he’ll share a good part of the days ahead. When they reach the campground about a hundred kilometers later, the sun is setting on the horizon while the sky rumbles in the distance. A good pizza for dinner, no time for fuss! The pizza is folded in half for efficiency. Then, finally, relief: lying down on his sleeping pad, closing his eyes and sinking into a well-deserved sleep.
Unfortunately, the respite is short-lived. Woken around 3 a.m. by rain seeping in and flooding the tent, he has no choice but to move in a hurry to the shelter in front of the toilets. He hopes, as best he can, that his things will have time to dry a little before getting back on the road a few hours later…
After the briefest of sleeps, it’s time to set off again. His clothes are almost dry, except for his shoes, which look like individual foot baths. No time to dwell on it: he gets going and runs into his friends Yann and Julien (Cyyyycles). A chance to ride together before tackling the biggest chunk of this bikepacking adventure: crossing the French-Italian Alps.
Five passes above 2,000 m
After a rainy start to the week, Julien makes the most of a stop at the checkpoint on the evening of day 3 to warm up and regain his strength. Once he’s back on his feet, he decides to book a night in a hotel, swapping his tent and inflatable pad for clean sheets and a comfortable bed. The goal: recover as much as possible before crossing the border and heading up into the mountains.
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, he meets up with Gilles and off they go again!
After a few dozen kilometers on paved road, they leave the asphalt to head into the Sestriere woods and tackle the Col de Montgenèvre. That’s where Julien finally finds what he came for on this adventure: total immersion in nature combined with a real physical challenge, with snowy mountains as a backdrop.
The air gets cooler as they climb, and the summit draws closer. A good hour later (loaded bike oblige), they’re there… Montgenèvre! A beautiful ski resort offering a reward worthy of the effort. True to local tradition, the guys order a platter of cheese and charcuterie… a real feast.
Under a beautiful sun, they enjoy a floating island dessert while planning the rest of their journey. But ambitions are scaled back: no way they’re tackling the Colle dell’Assietta, the highlight of the trip, at night. That landscape deserves to be admired! The decision is made: they won’t go further than the Sestriere base camp (just past the Italian border).
The next day, they start their 5th day full of excitement at the idea of reaching the summit. The climb is long and painful. But there’s no denying it, these mountain roads quickly make you forget the difficulty. When they (finally) reach the top, they can’t hold back their emotion: the effort was well worth it. This climb and the magical descent that follows will forever remain etched in Julien’s memory as the most beautiful he has ever ridden.
Ultra-distance mode: on
As they say in cycling, when the legs are there, make the most of it. Seizing the opportunity, Julien decides to carry on solo, leaving Gilles behind to switch to ultra mode. His goal? Cross the finish line with his other group of friends, who had pulled ahead and were about 200 km in front of him.
A quick stop at the supermarket to stave off nighttime hunger, and he’s off again! Down jacket on. Under the light of the full moon, he speeds through the forests and fields of Piedmont, lulled by the silence of the night.
Every sound echoes differently, every emotion takes on a new intensity. Head down over the handlebars, he pedals relentlessly until dawn. At first light, after downing a Red Bull in one go, he’s off again. Nature awakens around him: rabbits come out of their burrows, birds start their morning song and the sun peeks over the horizon.
After 30 hours of riding and a quick 20-minute power nap, the goal is reached. He finally joins his friends to finish this unforgettable adventure together.
Completely loco
The great thing about this bikepacking adventure is that you’re free to choose how you want to experience it: camping under the stars or treating yourself to a hotel night, wolfing down a sandwich or savoring a gourmet meal, racing at full speed or taking the time to explore… You’re the only captain on board.
A week in the Aveyron Gorges
To start well, surround yourself well
To finish our physical preparation for this long-distance trip, we focused on time in the saddle. The number of kilometers didn’t matter: the point was to get used to staying on the bike for whole days.
So what better than organizing a little week-long tour with friends from Toulouse in the south of France? Without a second thought, we pulled out our Recto Verso maps to find a nice route. All four of us agreed on a five-day loop in the Aveyron.
Between tastings and touristy detours to discover the pink garlic of Lautrec and other treats, we were dazzled. The road is beautiful. In fact, all of France is beautiful. We climbed up to the magnificent village of Cordes-sur-Ciel — which so deserves its name. Closer to the sky than ever, we rode the last meters between the village entrance and its historic center without getting off our bikes.
This stage of our route made us feel like we were in the heart of the Tour de France peloton. Tourists on foot (out of breath too) enthusiastically cheered our sporting feat. We felt like we had wings! Accompanied by the voices of passers-by, we made it to the top of the village. A great team victory that deserved a break at the local restaurant.
After a very greasy stop (to get over our emotions), we rode back down and set off in search of our first campsite.
The quest for the perfect campsite
The wind picks up, the night promises to be chilly. We need to find a nice spot with a great view but sheltered from the gusts. We have our list of requirements; now we just have to find the gem.
To give ourselves some courage, we stop in a small village where we can have dinner. I did warn you: this week of bikepacking was more of a food tour than a real quest for performance!
We find a gorgeous village square. Picture the scene: locals of all ages, not a tourist in sight (a good sign!), soft, warm end-of-day light. The sound of clinking glasses adds a festive touch to this rural atmosphere. Little by little, the evening lights come on. The four of us sit on the terrace, savoring these last moments of civilization before leaving it behind.
But it’s time to go! After a few pints and some charcuterie, we decide to tackle the last 500 meters of climbing to reach our campsite. The effort is worth it: when we get to the top, we’re speechless in front of a blazing sunset.
Taking stock
This stay in the Aveyron made us realize that a long-distance trip isn’t necessarily about speed or stats. On the contrary, we took our time, discovered local food and, above all, built a precious friendship with our friends.
That’s definitely how we want to approach our long-distance trip across the American continent. No need to rush when you can discover a country or a region slowly but surely.
Your turn to prepare a long-distance trip?
If you’re also setting off on a long-distance adventure, we can only recommend starting by spending time in the saddle. And above all, meeting people who will inspire you and give you advice left and right!
- Sitting for long hours can be a real challenge when you’re not used to it. So look around! There’s bound to be a group of motivated enthusiasts near you. Thanks to an article by the Rookies, we recently discovered a map listing cycling clubs all over France: the Social Ride Map. A great tool to motivate you and meet other cycling enthusiasts.
- We also recommend bike races and adventures in France. Our favorites? The GravelMan series and the Race Across Series. Far from traditional races, they’re above all about pushing your own limits and discovering beautiful places, on gravel tracks or roads depending on the event.
- If you want to build your camping skills, we highly recommend Bivouak and Poco Loco! Two institutions that champion low-carbon expeditions.
As you can imagine, this list is far from complete! We’ve just shared the events that are close to our hearts and that we’ve already taken part in. If you know others, feel free to share them in the comments! We’ll add them to this article.
And if you’d like to learn more about our departure, read our article about our urge for a long-distance adventure.
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