Great Divide in Canada, our impressions
Getting started on Canada's Great Divide
Top Start
The GreatDivide: E-N-F-I-N. We've been talking about it for ages! It's about time we were able to begin this magnificent trail through a small part of Canada, then the United States.
To give you a little context, the GD, also known as the GDMBR, is a Gravel road. Relatively far from civilization, it takes you across the US on quiet roads, far from the hustle and bustle of the cities. It starts in Banff, Canada, and crosses the USA to the Mexican border.
It gets its name from the fact that it divides the country's waters in two: to the west, the waters of the Pacific, and to the east, the waters of the Mississippi basin.
The Canadian section is quite tough, due to the mountain range (The Rockies) it crosses. We're talking about several thousand meters of positive vertical drop in just a few kilometers.
But riding on this track with an almost constant view of the snow-capped mountains is a luxury not to be underestimated. The trail winds through pine forests and high plateaus. It's simply magical.
Choose your route
The trail offers several options and levels of difficulty. In fact, as this trail is also a race, there is a slightly more difficult route, to make life a little more difficult for the brave ones who set off. I'll leave you to imagine the route Julien wanted to take...
Bingo! The hardest! Bear in mind that we don't have the same bikes as the athletes setting off on this adventure. Where we're loaded at a minimum of 45/50kg, they're more like 20kg MAXIMUM. Quite a difference, especially on the 15% climbs. You can imagine the state of our arms after 2 km of pushing our bikes...
The first few days on the Great Divide in Canada are spent at double speed. Julien, who is much better trained than me, is enjoying every moment. Neither the kilometers nor the altitude difference seem to have any effect on his morale or fitness. It's a completely different kettle of fish for me. My lack of training is catching up with me. In a nutshell? Suffering.
Shall we continue?
Every evening is therefore a time for questioning. Julien keeps telling me with all his patience and kindness that it will take a month for my body to get used to so much effort. A month is nothing on paper. But a month of crying every night and in every rib... that's a long time!
To cheer me up, Julien suggests calling my friends and family. The result is counterproductive almost every time. I burst into tears, sad to see them all "at home", in their comfort and without bikes to lug from point A to point B.
Julien is ecstatic about the richness of the scenery, inviting me to enjoy every breeze, every scent of the forest. I can't take my eyes off the handlebars. Head down, I struggle forward. One turn to the right, one to the left... how many kilometers to go today?
I promise Julien that I'll fight for at least the one-month trial. But I can't imagine "inflicting" myself any longer if I can't adapt.
Canadian hospitality
What keeps us going in this tumultuous start to our adventure is the kindness of the Canadians. Whether on the road or in the small towns we pass, they're all eager to help.
A 5-star meal
Our first meal in the company of locals is one we won't soon forget. A small lapse of concentration meant that we did in one day what we were supposed to do in two. Oops! So we have 85km to do instead of 35km. Nothing to worry about. But as it's the first day, it's not a welcome surprise.
The kilometers go by in agony. The wind is very strong and obviously hasn't decided to help us. Even downhill, we have to pedal to keep going or at least brake too much. It's frustrating.
Julien, seeing me closed since the announcement of the extra kilometers, decides to take advantage of this road against all odds. He's out front, zigzagging to see what's happening on either side of the road. He spots snow-capped mountains in the distance and says, "Phew! We're lucky, because when we get up there, we'll only be knee-deep in snow". Proud of his joke, he doubles his speed. I'm distraught, and obviously take all this talk at face value.
WHAT ABOUT THE SNOW?
But wait, how many meters of ascent does it take to reach the top of this mountain?
In short, it's been a bad day.
End of day
Fortunately, at the end of the day we reach civilization and a paved road. As the sun begins to set, we spot a man and his son on their bikes. Almost believing it to be a mirage, we call out to them and ask if they know of a place where we could sleep tonight. As luck would have it, they are parked a few meters away in a parking lot that is also a campsite.
It's a good thing we came across them, as the parking lot was nowhere to be seen from where we were standing, and especially in the opposite direction to our route.
So we join Jim, his wife Kristina and their two children. Seeing our tired faces, they offer to share a meal. Being true North Americans, they pull out all the stops. We were expecting a couple of sandwiches and a potato salad... ignorant fools that we are. Jim pulls out a barbecue while his wife sets the table and the ten ribs.
Amazed, we pretend to share the effort by offering six bags of ramen. Hilarious, they instead invite us to take a plate and feast with them.
What a memorable end to the day!
Bears and the Great Divide in Canada
What would Canada's Great Divide be without the surrounding bears? A cake without chocolate, probably!
When to see bears in Canada
Bears are not present all year round, but can be spotted up close depending on the luck (or misfortune, depending on the context) of the time of day, and therefore of the month.
As a general rule, experts agree that bears can be seen from May to October. The highest concentration is in British Columbia and Albert, so you've got every chance of encountering one if you do the Great Divide in Canada in June.
Bear or Grizzly?
Let's get down to some anatomy! There are many different species of bear, and you'll find them all over Canada's Great Divide.
The brown bear is reputed to be less aggressive than the grizzly. They are smaller on average, and don't seem to attack humans for no real reason.
The grizzly is much bigger and more aggressive. You can recognize it by the hump on its back.
Bears are unlikely to attack you for no reason. But there are many risky situations:
- You've cut off her offspring;
- You caught him in his morning grooming;
- You stole his little honey pot;
- You have a product that smells way too good in your tent;
- He is injured and is looking for some food to restore his health.
In short, there's no room for improvisation. Although we have an influence on almost all factors, there is a probability of being attacked for no apparent reason. That's why we have to be ready before entering their territory.
How to avoid bears in Canada?
That's a big question... is it a question of avoiding them? One thing's for sure: you've got to be prepared for that famous encounter, especially if you decide to camp outdoors. There are several options for doing so.
Thou shalt use bear spray
This object is a must-have for daytime strolls or late-night insomnia. The aim is never to use it. It'll let you know you're in relative safety if you come across an ill-intentioned bear. It should never be used as an everyday tool!
The first thing to do when encountering a bear is to stop and make sure the bear has spotted your presence. If not, from as far away as you are, make a noise to alert the animal to your presence.
If the bear has seen you, it will naturally move in the opposite direction. If he decides to come and meet you, back away carefully with your spray in hand. For the rest, we leave you to read the safety tips on your bottle and wish you: good luck!
Food thou shalt hide
Far from being man-eaters, bears are above all great gourmets! If you're unlucky enough to leave a bit of food lying around in your tent, they'll slowly come and dig it out.
To avoid this unpleasant nocturnal awakening, we advise you to put your food up high during the night and as far away from your tent as possible. As a general rule, we recommend placing your victuals between two trees, with a rope attached to two different branches.
The same goes for your meal. There's no point in stashing your food bag if you've drained the water from your pasta in front of your tent... if that's the case, don't panic! Just unpack your tent and move it a little further away.
The bells will ring
Small bells are often offered and sold before entering a national park in Canada. This little tinkling noise is said to scare away bears.... You can imagine how desperate you'd have to be to think that this little sound could protect you.
After talking to dozens of rangers, we've come to the conclusion that it's mainly a good way of spotting a tourist from a distance. As the saying goes, if you hear the bell, run before the tourist finds you first.
However, it's a nice decorative object that will have the merit of punctuating difficult climbs.
In short, you need to move forward with respect in their habitat and exercise caution at all times. If in doubt, stop. It's better to be too slow than to surprise a family in the midst of berry-eating.
Canada in figures
Day 1 - 85.38 km to 1094 m D+ from Banff to Pocaterra Campground
Day 2 - 22.37 km 320 m D+ from Pocaterra Campground to Boulton Creek
Day 3 - 82.15 km 883 m D+ from Boulton Creek to Elkford
Day 4 - 104.54 km to 1752 m D+ from Elkford to Fernie
Day 5 - 96.90 km 806 m D+ from Fernie to Eureka
PS: To find our route in more detail, you can have a look at our Route page or have a look at Julien's Strava.
Is off-roading in Canada a good idea?
Riding the Great Divide in Canada was for us one of the best experiences of our adventure. Perhaps this impression is also guided by all the discoveries we made along the way. But one thing's for sure: cycling in the face of snow-capped mountains is a gift we didn't fully appreciate until we reached the deserts of the USA!
If you'd also like to start your trip in Canada, there are plenty of options for pitching your tent. If, like us, you're a little skittish about the idea of sleeping out in the wild in a country where bears are king, you'll easily find campsites. Most are rudimentary, but more than adequate!
Please note: if you're traveling by bike or on foot, there's usually no need to reserve your pitch. There's always room for you.
And if you prefer to bivouac in the wilderness, no problem! Just make sure you're not visible from the road, and take every precaution to avoid attracting bears and grizzlies.
Canada has been an incredible playground for Julien and me. It hasn't been easy, let's be honest, but each day has allowed us to progress together, at our own pace.
If you'd like to hear even more stories about our stay in Canada, we invite you to listen to episodes 2, 3 and 4 of our podcast: C'est encore moi: Voyage à vélo! You'll hear about the time Julien and I got separated, and our encounters with bears.
Leave a comment